Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Hideaway Restaurant

It's hard to believe that a place as idyllic as Ocean Beach exists. Spotless, carless and litter-free, this Fire Island village is kept that way through strict regulations - its popular nickname is the "Land Of No." (In 1977, two people were famously arrested for eating cookies outside.) But after dining at Hideaway Restaurant, I propose a new moniker for Ocean Beach: the "Land of Yes, Yes, Yes!" Craig Attwood (formerly of NYC's Patroon and Islip's The Gatsby) is the Hideaway's executive chef, and he presides over an inspired menu with lots of seafood and a few Asian touches. (NOTE: As of 2009, Mr. Attwood is no longer at the Hideaway.)

Like Ocean Beach's other waterfront restaurants (Maguire's and Matthew's), the Hideaway features an outdoor dining deck. But diners can also enjoy the sunset inside, at a table decorated with fresh flowers and white votives in cornflower-blue holders. My companion and I sat by a window and watched people disembark from their boats to come and eat.

We sipped Shiraz and munched on warm focaccia as we waited for five-spiced baby back ribs and a beet and goat cheese napoleon. The six meaty ribs came with a refreshing salad of mint and lightly pickled watermelon slices. My napoleon was an imaginative creation - no puff pastry in sight, it was a little layered sculpture of beet circles, their juice painting warm goat cheese disks bright vermilion. The sweet beets mellowed the sharpness of the cheese.

I had considered ordering the yellowfin tuna sashimi appetizer, but figured this would be redundant with the coriander-crusted tuna. This dish was incredibly delicious; two seared pieces of tuna, their insides rare, lay atop a bed of buttered basmati rice interspersed with asparagus tips and slivers of shiitake. Green cilantro aioli encircled the dish. I finished every bite. My companion ordered the four giant diver scallops with watercress salad and oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fresh whipped cream was the final touch on each of our desserts, which were a zingy little Key Lime tart on an ultra-buttery crust, and a warm chocolate souffle cake accompanied by rum caramel banana pudding.

(I don't know how I had room for two Frisbee-sized banana pancakes at Rachel's Bakery the next morning. Maybe it was the effect of those ocean breezes.)

Hideaway Restaurant: Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island, (631) 583-8900.
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Free Money!

No, a spammer didn't get a hold of my login and password (at least, not yet). The free money I'm referring to is a promotion that Picholine is running to celebrate its 15 years of operation (and counting)! Just click on this link and you'll be awarded a $50 gift certificate. I think I'll use mine for a French wine and cheese flight.

Picholine: 35 West 64th St., 212-724-8585.
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Friday, July 18, 2008

3 Veggie Lunches For $8 Or Less

Occasionally I receive E-mails from hungry readers seeking recommendations. This post is for the vegetarian East Sider who was looking for an inexpensive lunch.
  • Zen Burger (CLOSED as of 12/12/08. I hope they reopen somewhere!) This environmentally-friendly answer to McDonald's serves an entirely vegetarian menu of "burgers," "hot dogs," and "chicken" sandwiches. The sandwich buns contain whole wheat flour, the coffee is fair trade, the napkins are 100% recycled, and all after-tax profits on bottled water are donated to the environment. A meal, which includes a sandwich, fries and drink, runs about $7. Personally, I found the burger to be more convincing than the grilled ZenChicken breast - the soy chicken had a strange texture. But after they slapped some cheese, onion, lettuce, tomato and special sauce on top of a Zenburger, I was hard-pressed to distinguish it from a "real" fast-food burger. (Aren't McD's burgers half-soy anyway?) (465 Lexington Ave., 212-661-6080.)
  • Lan Cafe. To my knowledge, this tiny Vietnamese joint is the only place in the city where you can order totally veggie banh mi ($5.50). There are lots of rice vermicelli entrees (one question: why is the grilled lemongrass seitan on rice vermicelli $7.95 while the grilled lemongrass seitan on steamed rice vermicelli is $8.95? Random.). My rice vermicelli sauteed with little strips of seitan, bamboo shoots and straw mushrooms was wonderfully peppery. (342 East 6th St., 212-228-8325.)
  • Dang Lai Palace. A newcomer to the East Side, this kosher dairy "world vegetarian" restaurant serves a lunch special for only $8, which includes an entree, taro spring roll and beverage. I have to confess that I haven't eaten here yet, but it falls under the $8-or-less criterion that my E-mail friend specified. So if you try it, let me know how it is! (180 3rd Ave., 212-505-2000.)
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Thursday, July 10, 2008

The Secret Capogiro Gelato Stand

Last year, I wrote about the intense chocolate gelato of Philly-based Capogiro Gelato. I was so impressed by it that I went on a flavor-seeking frenzy, eventually ordering a case of six different pints. Among them was an incredibly refreshing pineapple-mint sorbet, which I finished in no time.

A few days ago, when the temperature hit 89, I had an inexplicable craving for something frozen and pineapple. I trolled the aisles of Whole Foods and my local bodegas, but the most pineappley thing I could find was a pint of Haagen-Dazs pineapple-coconut ice cream. Rich with cream and eggs, it just wasn't the light treat I craved - and it didn't have that addictive hint of mint.

So I went through my mental archive of food cravings, and realized that my desire dated to that Capogiro shipment one year ago! I went over to their Website, saw my favorite flavor (ananas con menta), and promptly placed an order.

Now, I can understand why you might balk at ordering an overnight shipment of 6 pints of gelato or sorbet, even if you really want to try this flavor. The good news is, you don't have to! Capogiro apparently operates a "secret" gelato stand at Rockefeller Center, on the stairs above Rock Center Cafe. (I say "secret" because Capogiro is not allowed to put their logo on anything aside from cups, or have a sign advertising the origin of the frozen treats.) The stand is open from 11 am-8pm, and it serves three flavors: bacio gelato, limone sorbet and that wonderful pineapple-mint sorbet. The mint is farmed by Capogiro's own farmer.

Of course, you might get to the point where one cup of pineapple-mint sorbet isn't enough. You'll need to stockpile some at home. In that case, order a shipment and take this tip from Capogiro chef/owner Stephanie Reitano: a scoop is great in a rum cocktail!

The Secret Capogiro Gelato Stand: Rockefeller Center, 20 West 50th St., on the stairs above the skating rink and Rock Center Cafe. Look for the orange umbrella.
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Thursday, July 03, 2008

Chocolate Bar

(4/28/09 NOTE: The Chocolate Bar has now reopened again at 19 8th Avenue.)

The West Village's loss is the East Village's gain with the relocation of Chocolate Bar, which opened on East 7th St. this week. The attractive new space has barstools and tables, so you can now linger a while. And with so many delicious chocolate goodies, both edible and drinkable, you'll definitely be tempted to stick around. (NOTE: As of March '09, the news is that the Chocolate Bar is moving back to the West Village. It will reopen on April 28 at 19 Eighth Avenue.)

Chocolate Bar is known for its smartly packaged line of chocolate bars with flavors like coconut cream pie, malted milk, raspberry jam, key lime, salty pretzel and caramel apple. Some wrappers are inspired by pop art or graffiti, and owner Alison Nelson has plans for a line of tattoo-inspired wrappers. (She cutely informed me that she got her first tattoo in the East Village, so this seems particularly apt for the new location.)

Throughout the month of July, drip coffee and espresso (all from Gimme Coffee) is 1/2 off. I paid a visit yesterday and tried the espresso egg cream (there are also black & white and hazelnut ones) and an "iced buzzed" (mocha) that knocked my socks off. I used to crave the Mocha Choka at Gimme, but the Chocolate Bar iced mocha is much more chocolatey! Store manager Jack says that he uses 64% cacao chips in this drink. I already want another one; I hope he doesn't think I'm too weird if I stop by again today.

Besides, I didn't get a brownie yesterday. And I didn't get a chocolate-covered Oreo. Or a truffle. Or a chocolate peanut butter caramel bar. Or a chocolate-chip cookie. Or a chocolate-covered graham cracker. Or... did I mention, I really want another iced buzzed?

The Chocolate Bar: 127 East 7th St., (212) 367-7182.
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Tuesday, July 01, 2008

The 54th Summer Fancy Food Show

This year, I wasn't able to spend a lot of time at the Fancy Food Show; I got to the Javits Center shortly before the end. Fortunately, the vendors became very generous with their samples towards the close of the show - a woman was handing out bags of D.O.P. mozzarella di bufala campana! But I made sure not to load myself down with too many goodies, because there were people strategically placed at the exits to check through everyone's bags. (I did see a woman filling up her pockets with chocolates.)

Here are my highlights and bits of precious information:
  • A Poilane representative, who was showcasing some wonderful sourdough with D'Artagnan duck pate, informed me that the famous French bakery has plans to begin distribution through Whole Foods. How great would this be!
  • San Diego-based Chewy's, which makes gourmet pastries and cookies, has a really yummy crushed rugelach product. The company is marketing cinnamon-walnut and double-chocolate "Insatiable Crumble" as an ice cream topping or a cheesecake bottom. (More info at 800-241-3456.)

  • Creative cheddars were a treat for the tastebuds. Grafton Village Cheese was offering up sage cheddar, garlic cheddar and maple-smoked cheddar. (I have a block of the maple-smoked and I'm not sharing it!) Cabot, also from Vermont, had chili-lime cheddar.

  • There was a Belgian waffle stand, courtesy of Carbon's Golden Malted Waffles!

  • There was also a lot of alcohol. In the Peru section, a man from CATB Liquor was handing out grape whiskey sours made with Pisco Queirolo. I also had a lime mojito but can't remember where.
  • A man from Naturally Nora handed out three flavors of cupcakes. They were dairy-free, soy-free, kosher, and free of artificial flavors, colors, preservatives and hydrogenated oils! (Truly a cupcake for Bloomberg's trans-fat-free New York!) The confetti icing was naturally colored with ingredients like elderberry.

  • Fresh mozzarella was everywhere, not just at Fattoria Gaia. Lioni Latticini made an appearance; Antonio Mozzarella Factory handed out plastic cups full of bocconcini with basil; and The Cheese Works Ltd. had a mindblowing array of cheese including generous samples of burrata.

  • Cypress Grove Chevre served up some wonderful chive goat cheese.
  • My last stop was Venchi, the Italian chocolatier I became aware of when I visited Eataly this year. I wish the vendor had been freer with the samples; he gave me just one little triple-layered gianduja praline! Fortunately, many chocolate delights are available via the Website.
I'm going to end this post with a question for anyone who might know - at the end of the show, what happens to that whole pig at the Euro-USA stand?
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